ABOUT BEARDED IRISES
The peak flowering period for iris in Australia is from October – November.
Orders for Bearded irises starts early December through end of March. I close orders from 20th December throughout January, due to Christmas break and being too hot here to dig plants during the month of January. So, if you happen to place an order in January, sorry, you will have to wait until February before I make a start on it.
Bearded Iris are extremely hardy and make a wonderful display in many Australians gardens. They also make wonderful cut flowers lasting for up to a week.
The best planting time for optimum spring flowering is November - March.
WHAT BEARDED IRISES LIKE:
Sunny for at least half the day, preferably afternoon sun.
Well drained, a must or they will rot.
Replanting immediately after flowering. December to February. However they can be moved at any time but flowering can be disrupted.
Cover Rhizomes in Australia with 1 to 3cms of soil as a mulch. Do not leave them exoposed to the sun or they will scald.
Planting at least 35cm to 45cm apart.
Breaking up and replanting at least every 3 years for good quality and quantuity of bloom. On Planting use a balanaced fertilizer that will last 3 to 9 months. Give a side dressing of a balanced fertilizer in early spring.
Watering when replanted, then once established, a good soaking once every week or two is sufficient. Make sure your soil isn’t repellent, poke your finger in soil after watering to see if the water has soaked down.
Keep plants free from weeds and competing ground cover.
Not having to compete with other perennials that act as shade and they won’t flower well. Planting in a bed with Roses or on their own is ideal.
A good winter dressing of garden lime. Bearded iris prefer a neutral to slightly alkalinde soil, although they do well in a slightly acid soil above pH6.
WHAT BEARDED IRISES DON’T LIKE:
Shaded gardens, particulary planted near/under deciduous trees and shrubs. This stops summer sun ripening the rhizomes for next year’s flowers.
Wet situations, particularly overwatering.
Having their rhyzomes exposed, especaill in summer months, these will get scorched.
Mulch of any type, this can cause rot as well as shade, preventing flowering.
Having rich, notrogenous manures unless balanced with a phosphorous and potasssium fertiliazer. Do not use just animal manure or blood and bone as it will make lots of leaves and few flowers. It can also cause rot and severe leaf spot in summer.
Overwatering. Soak well when watering, then let be for 1 to 2 weeks in summer.
Weed infestation or other plants crowding them.
Being grown in pots, some varieties will fail if potted, others struggle and never reach their optimum size and quality. If they have to be potted for a short transitional time, this is fine. If it is for all the year, use a large pot or tub at least 12” (30cm) diameter. Use the best potting mix avbailable and repot every year.
Having their foliage cut back every year, will cause less flowering next season. Only cut back when transplanting.